Keeping with the tradition of the trip we got the 4:45 wake up call. The nearest mosque was not as close as yesterday but was definitely close enough to wake us up.
We decided that today was going to be our ‘sleep in day’ so we ended up rolling out of bed at 10. We went downstairs and grabbed breakfast and made the game plan for the day. We all decided that we wanted to see the part of the city called Old Damascus. Old Damascus is located near the middle of the city and has many historical mosques as well as the old city walls.
We briefly split ways and decided to meet near the Umayyad Mosque at noon. A good portion of our group decided to go to the internet café and find plane flight from Damascus to Cairo. I decided to get a shower because I was feeling pretty dirty.. Anyways, Mike, Corley, and I were the only ones still at the hostel at 11:30 so we decided to walk over to the Umayyad Mosque together. We arrived shortly before noon and waited for the rest of the group. Jasmine, Jeanna, and Henry rolled up shortly after 12, but the rest of the group was nowhere to be seen. After waiting for 15 minutes we decided we
couldn’t wait any longer and went to buy our entry into the mosque.
After purchasing our tickets the girls got outfitted with cloaks to cover their arms, hair, and legs so that they were considered suitable to enter the mosque. They looked a little ridiculous, but it’s part of the experience. We went to the main entrance, removed our shoes, and went in.
It was absolutely breath-taking. The Mosque is covered in marble, granite, and gold. The inner courtyard was about the size of a football field with the mosque circling around it. At different points along the mosque were three humungous minarets (towers). The architecture was absolutely amazing, and it’s just one of those things you can’t explain with words (check out my pictures).
We spent the next hour and a half walking around the Mosque in awe of its splendor. We spent time checking out the courtyard and minarets (One of which is colloquially known as the ‘Jesus Minaret’ because the local Christians think he will reappear there during the second coming..). After that we went into the Main hall.
The main hall (South Wing) is a hall that runs the length of complex and has a gorgeous vaulted domed ceiling adorned with stained glass. This hall is where the Muslims come to pray and listen to teachings from the Koran. Also inside the main hall is the Shrine of John the Baptist. It is an amazingly elaborate emerald green, stained glass structure, supposedly housing the head of John the Baptist. It was amazing to see the Muslim men and women congregate around this structure to pray and weep over someone I typically associate with Christianity.
We spent the better part of an hour sitting inside the main hall taking in the beauty and majesty of the place. We did however, have one hitch… halfway through we (I) realized the reason no other women were on our side of the mosque… It was because there was a men’s and women’s side of the mosque. Oops. I pointed this out to the girls who for the most part went over without any fuss. Except of course for Jasmine (the fight for your rights African American Woman of the group) who had to point out the sexism in the system… sigh (yes Dorothy we aren’t in Kansas anymore).
After getting our fill of the South Wing, Mike and I went over to check out the North Wing. The North wing was mostly closed due to maintenance on one of the minarets. However, there shrine located on the south side to Ali Ibn Husayn, showing where he used to pray (also contains his prayer rug) was open. It was crazy. The glass case enclosing the area was being swarmed by women and men trying to touch the glass. They were crying and weeping. Truly impressive.
After exiting the South Wing we all met up in the courtyard and exited together. We actually ran into the rest of the group just outside the Mosque. Apparently getting tickets had taken them allot of time and effort. We huddled together and decided that we wanted to check out the surrounding area and meet up again near the hostel at 5:30 to see the sunset.
Henry, Carter, Mike, Same, Jake, Jeanna, and I decided we wanted to walk the perimeter of the wall and see the Christian/Jewish quarters in Old Damascus. We walked around for some time just taking in the sights and feel of the city. All the people we met were helpful and friendly. We eventually stopped to get some schwarma from a local stand. Just as good as the night before!
While looking around we found another large mosque in back streets of Old Damascus. We went in and found ourselves in a crowd of pilgrims going to pay tribute to one of Mohamed relatives. Apparently housed in the Mosque was a mausoleum devoted to this relative. I thought the crowds trying to see Ali Ibn Husayn’s shrine were frantic…. This was ten times as crazy. We stayed long enough to check out the mosque and shrine, but not much longer.
Eventually we found our way into the Jewish quarter. It was interesting to walk around there for a little while. Kinda sad too... the area was covered in graffiti and swastikas. From there we continued to walk through the city. At one point we were swarmed by a group of school children yelling that we were spies… because we wouldn’t play soccer with them. We walked around the city for awhile longer, following the walls to the old entrance gates. It was really cool to see the old gates to the city.
After walking around for awhile longer, we found ourselves near the mosque again. Those that hadn’t seen the mosque went to go check it out while Henry, Mike, and I decided to look around the small shops. We eventually ended up back in the hand crafted section looking at all the cool stuff. We walked around for awhile and somehow Mike got separated from me and Henry. Henry and I decided to stop in a café and get some tea.
It was nice to sit and chat after walking around all day. It was also the first time I really got to talk to Henry one on one. He is from LA and attends UCLA, so we had a fair amount of common ground. Turns out he knows Jake Walker from Valley. He also is involved heavily in Campus Crusade at UCLA. It was nice to be able to talk about religion and similar issues with someone that had similar viewpoints as me. So far this trip I had felt like a large minority with my more conservative views. Henry and I decided that we would hold a Bible study together on campus to keep ourselves grounded while abroad. I’ll be honest I am truly looking forward to this.
After we were done with our tea we went back out into the street. From there we browsed a bit longer. I did some Christmas shopping for mom, dad, and Sara. I also decided on what I’m getting Andrew. After I was done with that I went to one of the art shops and bought myself some black and white paintings. It was really fun to talk and haggle with the store owners.
We were running late for our rendezvous back at the hostel so Henry and I booked it back. We arrived just in time to jump in the taxi with our group and head up the mountain side. We ended up on the side of the mountain looking down over the city. From there we watched the sun set over Damascus. It was gorgeous. The city was sprawled out before us interlaced with the forests on the east. The city was beautiful during sunset, but in my opinion it was more impressive after dark. Every mosque in Damascus is adorned with green lights (the color of Islam). You could see green lights everywhere, dotting the city.
We eventually headed back into the city and from there we went to the souqs. We decided to walk around the souqs and old Damascus at night. It is amazing to see all the old structures lit up with lights. We decided to change it up and get falafel tonight. Good, but the schwarma was better. After awhile we all walked back and found ourselves reading and hanging out at the hostel.
Jeanna, Henry, and I decided we would rather be out in Damascus than sitting inside. We went to an old café near the Umayad Mosque. It is renowned as the only one that still has a storyteller. We got there and ordered some tea. We sat and talked for an hour and a half until they closed. I really enjoyed talking with the two of them because I got to know them better.
Unfortunately no storyteller showed up. Either they don’t do it anymore or the times were posted incorrectly. Kinda bummed out but I enjoyed just talking. We eventually headed back (after stopping for ice cream) to our hostel. From there we went to sleep.
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