Today is the third day and we decided that it would be a good idea to find where the shuttles are that run from Cairo to the new campus. The new AUC campus is located in what is called ‘New Cairo’ a quickly growing city located about an hour bus ride east of downtown Cairo. There are two shuttle stops near our hostel that run to the campus. These are located in Zamelek near the student housing and downtown near the old campus. We are significantly closer to the old campus and decided we’d go check out the old campus then try to catch the bus to the new campus.
After breakfast we set out towards downtown. On the way we both stopped and purchased new bags that better matched the fashion of Egypt, thinking that we won’t stand out as much this way (who are we kidding). We both settled on a messenger bag/man purse. However, I (like Allan from the hangover) will henceforth be calling it my satchel because that is way more manly. Anyways the price on the tag was 600 LE but we both got ours for 55 LE which is just under 11 dollars.
The walk to downtown took us approximately 25 minutes and we arrived with little incident, however neither of us knew exactly where the old campus was located, we just knew the general area. One would think that finding a college campus wouldn’t be to hard right? Boy were we wrong. In Cairo all the buildings are big making the campus blend into the city. After an hour of searching we found the entrance near a row of American Restaurants. Ironically we had both noticed the KFC, Karls Jr. and Pizza Hut early but didn’t connect that they would be right near the American Campus.
Unfortunately our endeavors where quickly foiled. Upon arriving to campus we were turned away because we did not have student IDs for AUC. Additionally, the busses to new campus don’t run until the day of orientation…. So we were unable to see either new or old campus. Following the disappointment we headed back toward the hostel to find a café and get some tea. On the way back we ran into another Egyptian trying to sell us perfume. However, we turned and fled upon hearing the word business card.
We stopped at a café near the hostel that had been recommended to us earlier. We both got the mango juice, some water, and tea/coffee. After talking with the employees for awhile (mostly about Ramadan, this is the third or fourth time I’ve had Ramadan explained to me…. It seems that Arabs love to tell westerners about Ramadan) we decided to get the bill and leave. We were both shocked when we got the bill and saw that our tiny glasses of juice cost us 10 LE each. We were a little disappointed that they would charge so much considering we could get a glass twice that size for 3 LE down the street. We payed and left feeling a bit slighted.
Arriving back at the hostel we had an hour or two to kill before fattar and decided to do some studying/reading. I finished my Isaac Assimov book. A short nap later we were up and out the door looking for food. We ended up in the same area as last night and stopped at a local sandwich shop. Both of us got the Schawarma which is a sandwich filled with lamb or chicken and cheese, onions, and peppers. It reminded me of Philly cheese steaks back home. After dinner we decided to walk around and soak in the festivities associated with Ramadan.
Our hostel is located on Emad Al-Din which is considered by many to be a very traditional family oriented area. As such it is the heart of festivities in the area. All the side streets around us are packed with open air vendors and stores. People by the hundreds are walking up and down every side street stopping to socialize or shop. We found ourselves wrapped up in the wave of energy that surged through this small area as we walked about conversing with the locals and taking in the sights.
After some walking around we started talking to another traveler from Gaza. We decided to go have some tea at a back alley café. The man spoke both English and Arabic and seemed very social. Ten minutes into the conversation the man opened up and started telling us that his family and house were recently destroyed in a bombing and that he had no money or friend here in Cairo. He then went on to explain that he had a friend in Sydney that was going to transfer him some money but it would take two days and he could really use some help…. Especially from his two new friends…. This is when the red flags started to go off.. He explained that he had been kicked out of his hotel and had to keep his bag in a locker. If we would only loan him 15 dollars (75 LE) he would go get his bag, put us in his hotel, and meet us back here in twelve minutes. After which he would show us around the city and we could meet up tomorrow so we could give him more money to cover the last day. Two days later he would give us the money back…. Or disappear I muttered under my breath.
Till this point I was unsure if Evan had figured out we were being played, so I was delightfully surprised when he told the man that he would only help him if we could go with him to get his bag and go to the hotel. The man of course refused and insisted that it would embarrass him and that it would be unheard of for Americans to be seen helping a Muslim. However, Evan and I insisted. After trying to convince us some more Evan and I told him that we couldn’t trust him and that we would have to part ways.
This was a disappoint experience for the both of us. Evan and I have been attempting to interact with the locals as much as possible but so far all the ones who we get into long conversations with only want our money. It seemed to us that many in Cairo were artificially nice in order to get money out of travelers. However, karma owed us and this stereotype was soon to be broken by a 62 year old software developer named Aman.
We ran into Aman shortly after leaving the café. We decided to explore more south east of our hostel and set out with no destination in mind. Ten minutes later we were walking down the street and joined by Aman. We walked together for four or five blocks talking in Arabic. Out of the blue, Aman asks if we would like him to show us some of the city. We agree (myself somewhat skeptically) and head into the unknown. Aman takes us first to the original post office and shows us around then to one of the old commerce buildings which is now surrounded by an open air market/bazaar.
After walking around the bazaar for a bit Aman tells us to wait and disappears for a minute. He returns bearing sandals and asks us if he should buy a pair for us because he can get us the Egyptian price. We decline he leaves and returns and asks us if we want any hats, clothes, Egyptian full robes, etc. It was funny in a cute way because he really wanted to help us get the Egyptian price not the foreigner price.
Finally we exit the area and stop at another café. We get some tea and converse about Cairo’s history and family. Aman tells us he wants to show us an area of Cairo that is 1000 years old. We agree and are taken via cab to Old Cairo. We get out and are greeted by the original walls to the city. Walking along the wall we came to an old mosque. As we approach Aman tells us that when we enter we should say “Sallam alaykoom” (peace with you). Obediently following Evan and I find ourselves without shoes inside a gigantic, gorgeous mosque. The floors were marble and the courtyard was surrounded with pillars. We proceeded to get shown around by Aman, who at this point told us that our names where Mohamed (me) and Mahmud (Evan).
Within ten minutes we are approached and asked to leave. Aman inquires as to the reason and we are told that Evan and I don’t walk like Muslims…. Apparently all the gawking gave us away. We exit the mosque and proceed down a side street on a tour of downtown. We are led to a historical house inhabited by an old merchant. It was gigantic and elaborate. A mansion hidden in the middle of small houses and apartments. Alabaster courtyards, and gold where everywhere. I wish I had my camera with me on this little adventure to record some of what we saw because words cannot describe the beauty we witnessed in the mosque and this house.
We left and continued through old Cairo, stopping at shops and talking to locals. Aman greatly enjoyed introducing us as Mohamed and Mahmud and seeing the expressions of disbelief on the store owners and locals. Asking us to wait outside a store Aman left us to talk with a few locals who of course wanted to know how we got our names. This conversation lasted approximately fifteen minutes and was really awkward (in hindsight funny also). When Aman returned he had purchased us a sheesha (hooka) for our new apartment which we had told Aman we were looking for. We of course paid him back, however, neither of us some sheesha… oops.
At around 2:30 am we took a taxi back to our hotel and thanks Aman for the wonderful night and agreed to meet him for dinner the following night. All in all we spent just under 400 LE between the two of us for 2 taxi rides, a sheesha, and a few ‘free’/bribed tours. Not bad.
Showered then slept.
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